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Starting from Storey Arms, the Taff Trail immediately immerses us in the dramatic scenery of the Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) National Park. We are surrounded by rolling moorland and the towering presence of Pen-y-Fan, the highest peak in South Wales, often capped in mist or bathed in golden light. As we continue, the route takes us through heather and rugged slopes, with sheep grazing on the undulating terrain. Small streams tumble down from the hills, feeding into the young River Taff, which begins its journey south.
Historically, the trail follows routes once used by Welsh drovers, it later formed part of the old turnpike road connecting Merthyr Tydfil to Brecon, and later again was used by the Brecon & Merthyr Railway, which transported coal and iron from the South Wales Valleys. The path descends through open hillsides, where the landscape feels vast and wild, with sweeping views stretching across the central Beacons range.
Leaving the Taff Trail, we ascend into the dramatic landscape of Craig Cerrig Gleisiad National Nature Reserve, a hidden gem of the Brecon Beacons. This rugged glacial cwm is flanked by towering cliffs, with craggy outcrops and steep scree slopes shaped by Ice Age glaciers. The area is rich in rare alpine plants and a haven for peregrine falcons, which can sometimes be seen soaring overhead. As we climb higher towards Fan Frynych (629m), the view expands dramatically—southwards over the Taff Valley and eastwards towards the Black Mountains. On a clear day, we may even glimpse the Bristol Channel in the far distance. The summit itself offers a wild, windswept plateau, perfect for taking in the untamed beauty of this less-travelled corner of the Beacons.

From Fan Frynych the descent offers far-reaching views over the Usk Valley, the market town of Brecon, and the distant hills of Mid Wales. The path leads across open moorland and grassy plateaus, with Pen y Fan and Corn Du dominating the eastern horizon. This area is part of the Fforest Fawr Geopark, rich in geological history, where ancient rocks reveal stories of Wales’ prehistoric past.
As we near the Brecon Beacons Mountain Centre, we cross the Mynydd Illtyd Common, an area named after Saint Iltyd, a 5th-century hermit and founder of a famous monastic community. The plateau is dotted with prehistoric burial cairns and standing stones, remnants of ancient settlements dating back thousands of years.
Reaching the Mountain Centre it’s time for a well-earned break with a spectacular backdrop. The visitor centre offers insight into the park’s landscape, wildlife, and history, as well as offering cakes and coffees - making it an ideal stop to soak in the surroundings before the final stretch.
The last leg of the journey leads down into Libanus, where the landscape transitions into pastoral farmland, with stone walls and scattered farmsteads. Finishing at Libanus there is the bus stop to get back up to the Storey Arms car parks - or the option to visit the local pub.
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