Many years ago, before communism came to Hungary, Kadarka was its most popular wine. But alas, its thin skin and finicky nature did not lend itself well to a planned economy, and it all but disappeared. Don’t let the light color fool you, it is loaded with peppery spice, citrus and a warm bright finish. Open a bottle and take yourself to a crowded smoky café in Budapest. You are looking out at the Danube, the Goulash is powerful and the smoke is thick and you can’t remember, are you in Buda or in Pest.