There are a few things that we simply cannot refuse, and one is this finely etched, bone-dry, intensely mineral-driven Cremant. Etienne Bodet, fresh from stints with Sylvain Pataille, Bernard Baudry, and Chenin-whisperer Guiberteau, must have a direct line to our hearts. He grabbed us with one sip of 'Physis,' packed with fresh pear, white peach, crushed oyster shells, and earthy spice, the texture here is akin to a fine-mousse Champagne. High-toned and precise, but with a palpable playfulness—and a price that makes this perfect for any and every occasion.