Sometimes you find yourself in a small village in SW Hungary talking about the vibrational memory of water pioneered by a Japanese writer, and how a true wine of harmony forms hexagonal crystals at a molecular level. A quick pause for some homemade deer salami, another sip of Kadarka; you’re at the Bóka. András Bóka has filtered down that philosophy into one simple point: If structure is life affirming, then why destroy it with additives and filtering? He's spent the last 15 years restoring the vineyards his family purchased in 1903, planted to the historic, indigenous varieties of the region. His Kadarka is beautifully perfumed, packed with lip-smacking brambly red berries and a kiss of earth and spice, this is the Pinot pivot to liven up your holiday table.