Ride the wave

Surfing. You just never know where it’s going to take you. From getting out of your comfort zone to pushing your physical and mental limits – whether that’s the next beach down the coast, journeying through foreign lands, or stepping up into bigger waves. After our first waves, we are all driven down paths of discovery and experiences; and in many ways led to a rich education in life. 

In this issue we cover those surfing experiences from every angle. From the varied first surfing experiences of some of Europe’s best-known surfers, to legendary Scottish road trips. Al Mackinnon examines how surfing has, and hasn’t, really changed over the last 60 years, on the east coast of Australia, with the aid of surfing journo John Witzig. We also chat to Laura Crane about her mission to take on 60-foot waves, go on trips to Nicaragua and Ecuador, and travel to Kent to meet the Joss Bay crew – one of the UK’s oldest and most unlikely surfing communities. 

They’re all very different stories, yet at their heart, all driven by a common dream. As Kelly Slater recalls, following his first successful surf sessions as a kid: “I remember saying to myself, ‘I think I’m a surfer’. I felt I was kind of part of this tribe… It was who I was.”

Steve
Editor

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