A quiet, laser-tight focus of high-toned wild herbs (rosemary and sage), wet stone and citrus on the nose. Given time, a silky palate materialises from the coiled tension, more curious than clinical. Austere orchard fruit with a hint of spice and a Hemmingway-like story of the ancient limestone on which it grows. The strength here draws from its structured silence. What it doesn't say (fruit! cream! oak!) is more important than what it does. And when it speaks, do be sure to listen. (PS)