The thirteenth issue of Study moves through fashion as if watching something form and dissolve at the same time. Our main portfolio looks toward the beginning of things, the place where clothes are only ideas.

Camilla Nickerson, with her long history shaping the way we see fashion, returns to that first moment. She works with the toiles offered by this season’s new fashion creative directors. The toile is the first body after the sketch, the early outline of a future garment. Made in stiff cotton, pale and undecorated, it carries all the possibilities of garments still in process.

The houses shared these beginnings to her, and she transformed them into something that feels both raw and deliberate. She built a punk-lean wardrobe from these unfinished forms, worn by Charlie Jones and photographed by Mark Kean in a meeting of presence and imagination.

What comes out is fashion at its most vulnerable stage, almost not there, and because of that, deeply magnetic. The images feel like research and also like a conclusion. They are fashion and they are portraits. They stand alone but together they trace a line back to the slow forming of an idea becoming real.

If the main portfolio turns on fashion, the insert drifts somewhere more immediate, an encounter with Michael Rider’s first collection at Celine, seen through Bruce Weber’s lens. 

For this shoot, Weber gathered a loose group of teenagers and let them move freely: choosing the pieces they liked, folding them into what they already owned, building their own language of clothes without instruction. The portfolio becomes a record of that mood: the charge of youth, the shrug of confidence, the simple joy of dressing up, drifting through the streets, finding each other, and letting the day unfold without a map.

Contributors : Mark Kean, Camilla Nickerson, Rene Ricard, Bruce Weber

Design : Rupert Smyth Studio

Content : 102 pages of color and black and white photographs, protective packaging.

Dimensions : 21cm x 29,7cm

Price : 35 Euros